Cinque Terre

 Up early to catch the ferry to Varenna then traipse up the hill to the station to catch a train to Monterosso al mare (Cinque Terre)
All went smoothly - with some lovely last views of the lake along the way. Changed trains at Milan and continued our journey.
Arrived at Monterosso to find what looked like hundreds of people lined along the station ready to get on- it was quite a struggle to get off the train and move through all the people as they pushed to get on....
This was our first glimpse of the massive tourist crush that hits the Cinque Terre every summer - we were lucky to be at the end of the season ( so apparently this was a good day!) day trippers catch the train in and skip from station to station and check out each village - or walk through the hills around them in the National Park.

We were staying at an Airbnb apartment and we were to be met at the station by a taxi which the owner had organized. But the train was late and there were so many people around the station we couldn't see anyone waiting - phoned the owner who told us to wait at a particular spot and the cab would come to us....turns out he hadn't been able to find us in the crowd and other people were after his services.

Anyway - we soon realized why the owner insisted we have a taxi - up and up and around we went!!!  When we reached the address we had to go down about 6 flights of steps to get to the apartment.....(Andrew carrying cases - although this tiny woman who met us was trying to insist she carry one - think it would have done for her) anyway got to the apartment - quite tiny but nicely appointed- had wanted to catch up some washing - but alas there was no laundry or bath for washing.  

The owner insisted on we were only an easy few minutes from town - and she pointed out the back door to the shortcut to town - down, down, down and around ....I counted about 200 steps - not too bad going down - but coming up after a day out was a bit of a trial. Though it's amazing how quickly you get used to it.

The town was quite picturesque, quaint old buildings, lots of little shops,cafe's and restaurants in the winding  streets and lovely seaside views - of course the best views obtained by climbing up more stairs!
There was a long beach with chairs and umbrellas set in a long row for all the tourists .... No sand - Stones and pebbles only.

First night we found a restaurant overlooking the largest beach had a glass of Prosecco  - Andrew had an Aperol Spritz.  We shared a cheese platter and hoped to watch  the sunset - however the sun was hidden by a hill and the glorious sunset I hoped for was a no-show.

Next day we wanted to visit the other hamlets - knowing how crowded the trains get - we decided to go by ferry - which turned out to be just as crowded - but it was a nice way to arrive in the towns and got wonderful views on approach by sea.
First town was Vernasse - we were told it was the most picturesque - it was certainly an impressive looking town.  We walked up the hill through the town and saw a sign pointing up to the walkway to the next town -- we decided to at least walk to the high point so we could get a view of the town from above. Well we walked and walked - up stairs - up up until at last we could stop and get a brilliant view of the town from above - so lovely. Andrew went up a few more steps and a winding path to see if it was worth going further - soon came back and beckoned me to follow.there was a little restaurant perched on the edge of the steep hill wher we could sit on a small balcony ledge and drink some homemade lemon drink ... Very refreshing. The ledge was so Narrow there was no room to pass people. A Canadian woman at the next table offered to take our photo - which was no easy task in such a confined space!

We headed back down to the town - then back to wait for the ferry to the next town. Decided to go to Riomaggiore  the last hamlet next and work our way back.  It was after we got on the ferry that Andrew went to take a photo - and discovered he did not have his camera - he had left it on the restaurant table up on that ledge!!
I gave it up for lost - but Andrew insisted on going back to get it as he was very annoyed with himself. So that mean't we would have to make another ferry stop on the way back...
At Riomaggiore we found a place selling seafood in paper cones - we got a mixed batch to share - not exactly sure what was in it - but it was very tasty. (Squid,baby octopus, mussels and some unrecognizable items - quite tasty.
Bought some macaroons to take back to the hotel with us.

Each town was very picturesque - so small and each with a similar theme - one Main Street up from the wharf with shops and restaurants and then the walk up the hillside beyond that. Houses clinging to the hillside - on top of each other sneezer to breezer.

Dinner that night was at a little restaurant in Montorosso al mare - cold meat & cheese followed by Ravioli with salmon - (cooked like Grandma used to...

Lake Como

At Varenna walked down to the Port and stopped to admire the view- lovely.  Checked out the ferry times and decided we had enough time to relax and have a drink and some pizza in a restaurant overlooking the lake.
Then headed for the ferry - only 20 minute ride to Bellagio - such a beautiful place. Our Hotel " Splendide" was directly opposite the ferry terminal so did not have to go far.  Nice Hotel - very old worldly - showing it's age a bit - but still quite grand looking.  Our room had a view overlooking the lake - very lovely.
Went for a walk around the area, to get our bearings, then after a rest headed out to sit by the lake and have some refreshments and work out what we would do over the next few days. As the evening went on - the people at the next table joined us in conversation - turns out they were from Melbourne - Patterson lakes.  We got on well - then next morning we met them again and we decided to go on a boat tour together - including a visit to a local Villa - it turned out to be a lovely day.  They were leaving the next day to go to Munich.  We decided to go to Como for a day trip (again by boat). Another nice day weather wise, longer boat ride - went past many lovely towns along the lake.  Como was a large town - it was a bit quiet, being Monday a lot was closed- and the shops that were opened closed at 3.  But we had a good look around the medieval part of town - some lovely old buildings - then had a nice lunch at a little restaurant we found - I had a warm mixed salad - which turned out to be all seafood ( mostly squid, octopus, mussels) not a salad leaf in sight. Andrew had a              
We eventually headed back to the boat . On the return trip most people seemed more interested in finding George Clooneys house, than looking at the view!
Went for a drink by the lake - and found a band setting up to play live music.. So we decided to stay - They were a strange looking group of older guys - one seated (he appeared to be blind and not too healthy) man with him looked like his minder.  A short guy set up the equipment and another was standing behind a keyboard. Well - when they started singing everyone was amazed - such great voices.  The minder came around asking for requests - he then went back to the lead singer, told him the song - flicked through a large folder to find the song - then he plonked it in front of the singer and went and sat down - when someone new arrived at a table - he did the same thing. The singer smoothly went from one song to another - while playing the keyboard or backing tapes. keyboard. They took it in turns singing and they all sounded so good, fantastic voices.....a great night.

Next day we decided to do a long walk all around the town and surrounding villages.  So many stairs up an down and long winding roads - we saw so many hidden places that we would not have seen otherwise. Beautiful little fishing village, Grand Villas, olive groves, churches - large and tiny, beaches (pebbles and stones, no sand) some traditional old boats, even a very old gondola.  Such a long walk - but very good.
We had dinner at a lovely little restaurant we had found the day before - overlooking the water.....
We shared a Caprese salad and I had ravioli with spinach and ricotta and a glass of sparkling rose and for dessert a lovely chocolate fondant.
I think Andrew had pasta with a meat sauce followed by Grappa.